Posts Tagged ‘digital photography’

Organizing The Digital Photography Workflow

Friday, January 23rd, 2009

I recently had the opportunity to take an amazing one day workshop on digital photography workflow from Mac Holbert, co-founder of Nash Editions, widely known as the world’s first digital printmaking studio focusing solely on photography.  Prior to Nash Editions, Mac Holbert was the Tour Manager for the music group Crosby, Stills & Nash.  He co-founded Nash Editions with Graham Nash in 1987.  If you aren’t familiar with Nash Editions or Mac Holbert I recommend reading this interview by John Paul Caponigro.  John and Mac are both instructors with the Epson Print Academy.

Mac Holberts’s workshop revolutionized how I approach my workflow in Photoshop.  While Mac knows and willingly shares a wide range of Photoshop actions, adjustments and techniques, it is his suggestions for how to organize and approach the digital photography workflow that I found most enlightening.  As the saying goes, “give a man a fish and he eats for a day, teach a man to fish and he eats for life”.  Mac refers to specific Photoshop techniques as the fish, but a well organized and purposeful work flow as knowing how to fish.  He also points out that with a program as powerful as Photoshop, there are many ways to get to any single photoshop destination, but having a well organized workflow ensures that you don’t end up at the wrong destination, such as with damaged pixels or with workflow steps that can’t be reversed.

Mac emphasizes that the digital workflow should begin with adjustments that directly affect pixels (those not made on adjustment layers) and more global adjustments and then proceed toward more and more localized adjustments.  He also suggests that your Photoshop layer stack be organized to reflect this progression.

A workflow following this type of progression might go something like this: start with adjustments that affect pixels, such as cloning, noise reduction and perspective adjustments.  Then proceed to global tonal and color adjustments (made with curves adjustment layers) such as setting the black point, gray point, global contrast and global brightness.  After those adjustments are made it is time to start targeting smaller regions of the image that need adjusting such as regional dodging and burning and targeted tone, saturation and contrast adjustments.  Finally, the workflow is finished up with specific “spot” adjustments such as manual dodging and burning, tonal adjustments, midtone enhancement, local sharpening and so on.

Keeping the layer stack organized to reflect this progression is paramount.  The following graphic is the one the Mac uses to give a basic illustration of what a well organized layer stack might look like.

My old workflow, largely self-taught, generally allowed me to achieve what I wanted with an image, but it was highly haphazard and disorganized, and I often worked myself into corners or created hard to resolve issues.  I knew that there was a better, more efficient and less damaging approach.  Mac’s suggetions were just what I was looking for.  If you ever get the chance to attend one of Mac’s workshops, through the Epson Print Academy or elsewhere, I highly recommend it.

Photo Tip: Blurry Trees

Thursday, November 20th, 2008


Much of my photography is of the greater landscape and I’m often trying to present sweeping vistas with sharp detail.  However, I also like to photograph more intimate scenes and abstracts.  One of my favorite abstract techniques is motion blur.  This can be achieved a few different ways and is a particularly good technique for emphasizing leading lines in a photo while smoothing out distracting elements.  The final result can often look more like a painting than a photograph.

I really like to use motion blur with trees that have staight trunks.  The technique is more an art than a science, so a lot of experimentation and throw away images are required to get something that I like.  I start by setting a relatively slow shutter speed and making a vertical pan (movement) with my camera.  I have found that shutter speeds between 1/4 of a second and 1/20 of  a second work best.  I move the camera up or down, in as straight a line as possible and depress the shutter release as the camera is moving.  At slower shutter speeds I pan slower and at faster shutter speeds I pan faster.  It is hard to know exactly what will be in the frame so I repeat the process over and over so that I will have many images to select from.  Panning the camera while it is on a tripod can help keep the motion steady and smooth, but also limits flexibility.

Physically panning the camera is often all I need to do to achieve the abstract look I’m going for.  Other times I selectively add more blur by using the Motion Blur filter in Photoshop (Filter>Blur>Motion Blur).  To do this I’ll create a duplicate layer of the background image and blur the duplicate.  Then I’ll add a layer mask to the blurred layer and paint with a black brush on the mask to bring through any detail from the original image that I want to keep.  This digital blurring technique can also be applied to images that were taken in focus without panning the camera.  Digital blurring often takes just as much trial and error as panning the camera.

Several of my favorite photographers have used these techniques to create some wonderful abstract images, including Jesse Spear, Eddie Soloway and William Niel.

Longer Exposures For More Saturation and Luminosity

Monday, October 6th, 2008

 

In situations involving low levels of light it can often be beneficial to obtain a longer exposure to allow the sensor/film more time to absorb color and glow. There can be a lot of color and light bouncing off clouds and hills that our eyes can’t pick up. Cameras are able to “see” into low light scenes by leaving the shutter open and collecting more light. If I really want to pull as much light and color from a scene as possible I’ll often use a neutral density filter (ND) along with my usual filter stack (polarizer and graduated neutral density when needed) and also set the ISO on my camera down to 50 in order to extend what was already going to be a long shutter speed.

A neutral density filter is a neutral gray piece of glass or plastic that is placed in front of the lens.  Since it is neutral it doesn’t change the color of the image or do any other special effects.  All it does is reduce the amount of light that can pass through the lens to the image sensor or film (kind of like wearing color neutral sunglasses).  By reducing the amount of light coming in, the exposure time needs to be longer to get a properly exposed image.  One effect of longer exposure times is the blurring of anything moving within the image (water, clouds, wind blown trees, etc.).  Another affect is that if there is low level colored light washing over the scene it will saturate in the image over time.  I use Singh-Ray neutral density filters because they are some of the most color neutral filters available and give excellent results.  I also use Singh-Ray Graduated Neutral Density (GND) filters.  GND filters are neutral gray at the top and fade to clear near the middle.  They are used to hold back the light in one part of an image (like a bright sky) in order to balance the light across the scene.

The two photos above were taken one right after the other, the first at 6 sec @ f/20, ISO 100 with a 3 stop GND for the sky. The second was taken at 30 sec @ f/20, ISO 50 with a 3 stop GND and a 3 stop ND. Quite a difference 24 seconds of shutter time can make.