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Photographing Southern Baja, Mexico

December 28, 2010 by Sean Bagshaw 8 Comments

Photographing Southern Baja, Mexico

Mexico is one of my favorite places to travel and photograph. Although it has recently been getting negative media coverage for events occurring mostly in cities near the US border related to drug trafficking issues, my experience is that many areas in Mexico pose minimal risk for travelers; certainly less risk than places within the United States. Millions of Americans live in cities with higher crime and violence rates than the places I visit in Mexico. Americans think very little of visiting places such as Los Angeles, New York and Washington DC. However, I do meet people from other countries who avoid visiting those cities based on what they see on TV.

In the past couple of years I have traveled to and photographed several locations in Mexico in which I felt very safe and saw no signs of the problems being reported in the news. Some of the locations in Mexico that I have been to recently can be seen in my Mexico photo galleries including Guanajuato, Sayulita, Puerto Escondido, Mineral de Pozos and San Miguel de Allende.

Most recently I spent eight days traveling extensively through southern Baja California. I passed through several towns including La Paz, Todos Santos, Cabo San Lucas, San Jose Del Cabo, Santiago and La Ventana while scouting for a photography workshop that I’ll be leading with professional photographers David M. Cobb and Christian Heeb in November of 2011. The remote end of the finger of land known as the Baja Peninsula is further from the troubles of northern Mexico than many places in the US. Largely uninhabited, Baja presents an otherworldly desert landscape filled with towering cardon cactus and bordered by the achingly clear turquoise waters of the Sea of Cortez. The lifestyle we found there was very relaxed and peaceful. The small but well maintained two lane roads through the desert had very little traffic and the people were gracious and welcoming. Very few places I have visited have felt as safe or as accessible.


The best part of the trip was the variety of new and different subjects to photograph which are not part of my familiar NW landscapes. The other best part was the fact that in November, when my home town is engulfed in freezing fog and rain, the weather was about as perfect as it could be. It was comfortably cool at night, warming up to the high 80’s during the day with relatively low humidity for the latitude. The crystal clear water of the Sea of Cortez was the temperature of a heated swimming pool.

The entire Gulf of California was designated a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2005. One of the highlights was hiring small fishing boats to take us out to some of the nearby islands, most notably Isla Espiritu Santo, but also Isla Cerralvo. These islands have been protected as wilderness and are teaming with wildlife, both above and below the sea. If you have ever seen photos of cactus perched above pristine turquoise bays there is a good chance it was on Espiritu Santo. This may also be one of the few places where you can easily snorkel with sea lions and sea lion pups without need of a wet suit.

The most intimidating place in southern Baja I visited was Cabo San Lucas and that was almost entirely due to the Americans spilling out of cruise ships, visiting dance clubs, chartering fishing boats and building mansions on precipitous cliff above the sea. At one time the landscape at the southern most point of Baja must have been a true natural wonder, but now it is almost completely developed. Still, the beaches and rocky cliffs at Land’s End are so beautiful that they are worth seeing and photographing even in their current state of development. The towering arch on the southern most tip known as El Arco is a wonder to behold.

We discovered a wonderful Oasis in Cabo, Los Milagros hotel. The quiet garden courtyard setting, attractive rooms and friendly owner made it hard to believe it was located in the center of Cabo. We are making a point to stay at Los Milagros with the photography workshop next year. We also found similar quiet, friendly and comfortable lodging at el Angel Azul in La Paz and at the Ventana Bay Resort in La Ventana.

Los Milagros El Angel Azul

One of the highlights of the trip was photographing the Dia de los Muertos or Day of the Dead celebrations in La Paz. This Mexican festival held in Early November honors and remembers those who have died. While the Day of the Dead is not nearly as popular in Baja as it is in other parts of the country, La Paz has a wonderful event at the city’s outdoor theater that features a beauty pageant, dancing, poetry readings and theatrical performances. The colors, lights and costumes all made for some great photo opportunities and a true departure from my normal nature focus. We are timing the 2011 workshop to allow us to photograph this event again.

Even though I had wanted to travel to southern Baja for some time, the experience exceeded my expectations. It provided a near perfect combination of safety, adventure, culture, comfort, weather, great people and photographic interest. With at least three more months of hard winter weather coming up here in the NW I’m already anticipating my next visit. Perhaps the best part will be the opportunity to share it with the photographers who join us for the workshop. No matter where these workshops take me it’s always with a great groups of folks who enjoy expanding their photography skills and having a rip roaring good time.

If you would like more information on the November 2011 Baja California photography workshop it is available on my Workshops Page.

Filed Under: Photography Travel Journal Tagged With: Baja, Mexico, photography workshop, travel photography

Subterranean Guanajuato

January 22, 2010 by Sean Bagshaw Leave a Comment

Subterranean Guanajuato

Guanajuato, Mexico is as visually interesting as any city I have photographed. What many visitors might not realize, however, is that to find some of the most surreal parts of town you have to go underground.

The entire city sits atop an extensive subterranean tunnel system. The tunnels were originally dug by mining operations starting in the 16th century to divert the river and keep the town and mines from flooding.

From its beginnings in the mid 1500s the city was built to maximize useable space on the steep hillsides. Houses were stacked on top of one another with only the narrowest of alleys between them. Much of the charm of Guanajuato comes from the fact that it was never intended to accommodate cars.

But cars were inevitable. In a huge engineering project in the 1960’s, as car traffic in the narrow streets became more of a problem, the river was diverted yet again and the tunnels were converted into an underground system of roads. New tunnels have since been added, creating an ever expanding underground even Batman would be envious of. Drivers who know and understand the complex catacombs can quickly get from one part of the city to another. There are many entry and exit points making it possible to dive underground in one neighborhood and surface in another the next valley over.

Most of the tunnels are deep underground, dark and full of car exhaust, but in places they break out to the surface where they are lined with buildings, bridges and arches.

The subterranean channels and tunnels create an entirely different and mysterious dimension to a town that already has so much interesting character. It is a little hard to locate the best parts of the subterranean tunnels at first, and it can also be very disorienting trying to navigate through the tunnels. Often I’ll emerge in a part of town that I have never been in before.

If you enjoyed this photo essay consider sharing it on your social media network of choice using the handy links below.

Filed Under: Photography Journal, Photography Travel Journal Tagged With: fine art photography, Guanajuato, Mexico, night photography, travel photography

Doors And Windows of Guanajuato

January 21, 2010 by Sean Bagshaw 6 Comments

Doors And Windows of Guanajuato

One of my favorite photography projects in Guanajuato is exploring the callejons (narrow alleys) in search of interesting doors and windows. Many of the home owners in this town take great pride in their houses. Bright colors are popular and particular attention is paid to doors and windows. While some doors are kept carefully, other doors are neglected and have an authentic patina of time.

With a rumored two thousand callejons in the city, all lined with buildings, there is no lack of doors and windows. Every door is different. Some are pristine, with carved and crafted hardwood and hand forged metal parts. Others are weathered and full of character. Some are precariously set in crumbling stone and brick and covered with graffiti. Each one tells its own story.

As a photographer, I love the way light is reflected at different times of day in Guanajuato. The alleys are narrow enough that they transmit light in a way similar to a desert slot canyon. Direct sun striking the upper reaches of a deep alley can bounce back and forth off of the buildings, projecting a soft, radiant light deep into the shadows. A fully lit alley wall can also reflect a very strong glow onto the adjacent wall or around corners.

The light is constantly changing, so part of my challenge is to find doors and windows that have special character and then return to photograph them when they are illuminated by particularly intriguing lighting conditions.

These are just a few of the door and window photos I have taken on this visit so far. I also took a bunch last time I was here and I’ll probably photograph some more before I leave. I’m not sure what I’m going to do with all the door photos. Photographing them is mostly a compulsion. I suppose I’ll publish some of the best ones on greeting cards. I have also had requests for a “Doors of Guanajuato” poster, which I think is a pretty good idea.

If you enjoyed this photo essay consider sharing it on your social media network of choice using the handy links below.

Filed Under: Photography Journal Tagged With: fine art photography, Guanajuato, light, Mexico, photography technique, travel photography

Rain In The City Makes Magic

January 10, 2010 by Sean Bagshaw Leave a Comment

Rain In The City Makes Magic

Plaza de la Paz
Plaza de la Paz, Guanajuato

Normally I get a little bummed when I get up early for photo shoot to find it raining. But on our second day in Guanajuato I was perfectly happy with the light drizzle. Night cityscape photography is just about the only time I like to shoot in the rain. The mix of colorfully painted buildings and well lit callejones (alleys) in Guanajuato make night photography here particularly beautiful anyway. But one thing that can enhance that beauty is if the cobbles are wet, causing them to shimmer, reflecting the color and light.

Calle Tecalote in the Rain
Calle Tecalote in the Rain

It wasn’t raining hard, but I still got thoroughly soaked as I wandered around the streets in the dark. Keeping the camera lens dry was also a challenge, especially for the 20-30 second exposures that were required while using a circular polarizer and an aperture of f/16 in low light. In the northwest US, rain is common enough that there are usually awnings or covered entries to hide under when shooting cityscapes in the rain. Not only are awnings rare in this arid part of the world, but most buildings don’t even have any sort of eaves to hide under. I was only able to take a few images before my gear and I were wet enough to call it a morning. Still, I’m excited about the images I did get and hope to have another chance to photograph in the rain while I’m here. On the other hand, I might give up that chance if it meant I could get some warm, sunny weather. I’m layered up and freezing at the moment since the houses don’t have insulation, double pane windows or weather stripping.

Guanajuato Streets in the Rain
Guanajuato Streets in the Rain

Filed Under: Photography Journal Tagged With: Guanajuato, long exposure, Mexico, night photography, travel photography

Mountain Mining Towns of Mexico

January 8, 2010 by Sean Bagshaw Leave a Comment

Mountain Mining Towns of Mexico

For the entire month of January I’m taking my photography in a slightly different direction and exploring the colonial mining towns of central Mexico. My blog will act as my travel journal. I’ll be posting images and stories about the project here every couple of days.

Guanajuato Sunrise
Guanajuato Sunrise

So, why this particular region of Mexico? Several reasons actually. Guanajuato, the city that I will be based out of, is the sister city to my home town, Ashland, Oregon. The two towns share geographic and cultural similarities. Both are located in valleys in the mountains, both are university towns and both have theater festivals and strong art culture. Since the two towns became “sisters” there has been a continuous exchange of students, teachers, musicians, artists and city leaders. My wife has been coming here for several years to attend Spanish language school. This year our sons are old enough to begin taking Spanish lessons, so we decided to move the entire family down for a month of language immersion. I made a short trip to Guanajuato about three years ago and fell in love with the photographic potential of the architecture, character and beauty of the town. During this more extended stay I hope to do the kind of in depth photography that comes with familiarity with a place and also travel to some of the other towns and environs in the region.

Early colonists came to the mountains of central Mexico to mine for metals and minerals. The towns are often built on steep hillsides in narrow valleys. In Guanajuato, most of the roads are in tunnels beneath the city and the town is accessed via pedestrian streets and very narrow and steep alleys. The colorful houses are stacked upon each other like a big game of tetris and the alleys can be almost as narrow, deep and winding as slot canyons in Utah. Needless to say, Guanajuato and the other mining towns in the region are popular with photographers.

Calle Potrero
Calle Potrero, Guanajuato, Mexico

My focus this month is to continue the photography that I started on my previous visit and try to create the most beautiful, dramatic and expressive images of the area that have ever been taken. I have a virtual office set up here so I can continue to work and do business via the Internet. Processing images on my laptop is difficult. The lesser contrast, resolution and speed mean that the images I post during the trip will be as good as I can get them, but will be in rough draft form. All of them will need to be remastered when I get home, but hopefully they will give you an idea of what I’m going for.

For those of you who think I’m in Mexico to relax in the sun, not quite. Guanajuato sits almost 7,000 feet above sea level and the average temperature is 62 degrees F. January is the coldest month and temperatures at night can drop into the 30s. Today it is cold and rainy. So, this isn’t a Mexican beach vacation I’m on here. While I like to sit on the beach and surf as much as anyone, the culture, scenery and history of this place will make it a very rich experience of living, learning, spending time with my family and doing my work.

Filed Under: Photography Journal, Photography Travel Journal Tagged With: Guanajuato, Mexico, Mining Towns of Mexico, travel photography

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